Roselles & Calçots

Spring is giving way to early summer and throughout May, the corn fields in the Girona region of Catalunya are a riot of colour from the Roselles (Poppies in Catalan). The best places to go to see the poppies locally are in between the Gavarres Massif (a 28,000 Ha protected nature reserve) and the Costa Brava coastline close to the little seaside village of Calella de Palafrugell. These photos were taken at Platja Castell, a wide sandy beach situated in a typical Costa Brava cala. This beach forms part of a section of one of the best hiking trails of the coastal path that lies in between the seaside villages of  La Fosca and Tamariu. This trail, called the Cami de Ronda in Catalan, winds its way along the coastline from Blanes in the south all the way to the French border.

Between Platja Castell and La Bisbal, in amongst the corn fields, there are a dozen or so small medieval villages that date back to the 10th Century and is one of our favourite spots along the Costa Brava to cycle the off road trails of the via verde - the old railway line that links St Feliu on the coast to Olot in the low Pyrenees.

Platja Castell (right)

Some of the best preserved villages in Baix Emporda are Monells, Peretallada, Pals, Madremanya and Palau Sator. The latter, is also the location of Mas Pou, a gem of a restaurant serving traditional Catalan food with  a touch of elegance, but without the over-inflated prices of the coastal tourist traps. Try a "Calçotada".  This traditional Spring-time meal is named after a locally grown onion (calçot) and starts with a dozen or so of them, charred on the BBQ and served in a roof tile with bread and a Romescu sauce. The main dish is generally a selection of meats of your choice (try the lamb!), all perfectly grilled to your order on the BBQ. I'm not sure why people here serve calçots in a roof tile, but it really is the perfect receptacle for these leek-like onions. Bring an appetite and don't wear white as you may get very messy from peeling away the charred outer leyers of the calçot and dipping the sweet caramelised inner into the sauce with your fingers..... They generally give you a finger bowl and a bib and don't feel shy to ask the waiter how to peel them. There is a knack :) 

A Calçotada is an absolute must on your list of cultural and gastronomic experiences here in Catalunya. They are very popular with locals and visitors alike, so you'll need to reserve a table and be prepared for a long lazy lunch !

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About me… I have lived in Calonge (province of Girona) on the Costa Brava since 2003 after retiring as a pilot from the british Royal Air Force. My passions are hiking, biking, skiing, photography and discovering and sharing the hidden cultural treasures of this beautiful country. My day job entails managing a luxury self-catering rental Villa, Casa Cal Domino, and in my search for new and interesting things to do for my clients whilst they are here on holiday, I have been genuinely overawed by the beauty and diversity of this land. I’m not leaving any time soon. I love it here and I hope to inspire you to come and discover this wonderful country for yourself.